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I like to serve the gumbo and pickle with fluffy rice and a handful of fresh parsley.
Own your gumbo by surfing the seasons with pumpkin, squash, mushrooms, sweetcorn, courgette. Use your imagination – it’s a brilliantly flexible recipe.
AMAZING TOMATO CURRY
FRAGRANT SPICES, SAFFRON & COCONUT SAUCE, TOASTED ALMONDS
SERVES 4 | 40 MINUTES
1.2kg ripe mixed tomatoes
1 pinch of saffron
20g flaked almonds
4 cloves of garlic
4cm piece of ginger
2 fresh red chillies
olive oil
1 handful of fresh curry leaves
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 onion
1 × 400g tin of light coconut milk
2 teaspoons mango chutney
With the tip of a knife, prick the tomatoes, removing the cores from any larger ones. Carefully plunge them into fast-boiling water for 45 seconds, then drain and peel away the skin. Cover the saffron with 100ml of boiling water and leave to infuse. Toast the almonds in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat until golden, then tip into a small bowl and place the pan back on the heat.
Peel and very finely chop the garlic, ginger and chillies. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil into the pan, then add the curry leaves, followed by all the spices. Peel and quarter the onion, click apart into petals, then add to the pan with the garlic, ginger and chilli and fry for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the tomatoes, coconut milk and saffron water, then cover and simmer for 20 minutes, removing the lid and adding the mango chutney halfway. Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper, then scatter over the almonds. Serve with fluffy rice.
This curry goes up a level when tomatoes are at their most delicious, so make it in the summer with beautifully ripe tomatoes for the very best results.
BURNS NIGHT STEW & DUMPLINGS
CHUNKY ROOT VEG, HAGGIS SEASONING, CABBAGE & APPLE SLAW
SERVES 6 | 2 HOURS
300g celeriac
300g swede
3 carrots
olive oil
4 fresh bay leaves
1 × 280g jar of silverskin pickled onions
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground cloves
75g pearl barley
330ml smooth porter
2 teaspoons blackcurrant jam
1.5 litres vegetable stock
300g self-raising flour
50g unsalted butter (cold)
¼ of a red cabbage (200g)
1 eating apple
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon wholegrain mustard
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Peel the celeriac and swede and scrub the carrots, then roughly chop and place in a large casserole pan on a medium heat with 1 tablespoon of oil, the bay leaves, a pinch of sea salt and a generous pinch of black pepper. Drain the pickled onions and add with the ground allspice and cloves, then cook for 15 minutes, or until nicely golden, stirring regularly. Throw in the pearl barley, pour over the porter and leave to bubble and cook away, then add the jam and stock, and simmer while you make the dumplings.
Tip the flour into a bowl with a good pinch of salt. Chop and rub in the butter, then mix in about 100ml of water, or just enough to bring it together into a pliable dough. Roll into 12 balls, then plop into the stew, shaking to coat. Drizzle lightly with oil, then cover and bake for 1 hour, or until the stew has reduced and the dumplings are golden and puffed up, removing the lid for the last 15 minutes to build some colour. Meanwhile, very finely shred the cabbage and apple with good knife skills or on a mandolin (use the guard!). Toss with the vinegar and mustard, then season to perfection with salt and pepper.
Taste and season the stew, if needed, then serve with the dumplings and slaw.
The dumplings will double in size as they cook, so make sure you’ve got enough distance between the stew and the lid of your pan.
THAI-STYLE MUSHROOM & TOFU BROTH
HOT, SOUR, SALTY & SWEET LIQUOR, FLUFFY CRISPY RICE CAKE
SERVES 6 | 25 MINUTES
olive oil
450g basmati rice
800ml vegetable stock
1 × 400g tin of light coconut milk
4 teaspoons tamarind paste
4 sticks of lemongrass
15g palm sugar
1–2 fresh red chillies
4cm piece of ginger
200g mixed mushrooms
300g firm tofu
6 spring onions
½ a bunch of fresh coriander (15g)
low-salt soy sauce
1 lime
Rub a large non-stick frying pan lightly with oil. Tip in the rice and twice the volume of water, season with a pinch of sea salt, then cover and cook on a high heat for 10 minutes. Remove the lid, then cook on a low heat for a further 5 minutes, or until the rice is fluffy with a crispy bottom, shaking the pan occasionally.
Meanwhile, tip the stock and coconut milk into a large pan, and add the tamarind paste. Peel the lemongrass and trim the ends, very finely chop the tender stalks and add to the pan, then roughly chop and add the palm sugar. Deseed and finely slice the chilli(es), peel and finely chop the ginger, then add it all to the pan and place over a medium heat. Roughly chop any larger mushrooms with the tofu, leaving any smaller ones whole, then add to the pan. Bring to the boil for a couple of minutes while you trim and finely slice the spring onions and pick most of the coriander leaves, then stir through with a drizzle of soy sauce, to taste.
Spoon the broth into bowls. Turn out the rice cake, slice into wedges and place on top. Serve with the remaining coriander and lime wedges for squeezing over.
There’s a lot of fun to be had here with seasonal veg and mushrooms – react to what’s available and make the most of them.
MUSHROOM STROGANOFF
CRUNCHY CORNICHONS, FRAGRANT CAPERS, CREAMY WHISKY SAUCE & PARSLEY
SERVES 2 | 20 MINUTES
400g mixed mushrooms
1 red onion
2 cloves of garlic
4 silverskin pickled onions
2 cornichons
4 sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley
olive oil
1 tablespoon baby capers
50ml whisky
smoked paprika
80g half-fat crème fraîche
Get all the prep done before you start cooking: trim the mushrooms, tearing up any larger ones and leaving any smaller ones whole, peel and finely slice the red onion and garlic, and finely slice the pickled onions and cornichons. Pick and roughly chop the parsley leaves, finely chopping the stalks.
Place a large non-stick frying pan over a high heat, throw in the mushrooms and red onions, shake into one layer, then dry-fry for 5 minutes (this will bring out the nutty flavour), stirring regularly. Drizzle in 1 tablespoon of oil, then add the garlic, pickled onions, cornichons, parsley stalks and capers. After 3 minutes, pour in the whisky, tilt the pan to carefully flame, or light with a long match (watch your eyebrows!), and, once the flames subside, add ¼ of a teaspoon of paprika, the crème fraîche and parsley, then toss together. Loosen with a splash of boiling water to a saucy consistency, and season to taste with sea salt and black pepper.
Divide between plates, sprinkle over a little paprika, and serve with fluffy rice.
Look out for seasonal wild mushrooms in supermarkets and local farmers’ markets – they’re absolutely extraordinary and will add so much bonus flavour to this dish.
WONDERFUL VEG TAGINE
SAFFRON, PRESERVED LEMONS, APRICOTS, FLUFFY COUSCOUS & TOASTED ALMONDS
SERVES 6 | 1 HOUR
1 pinch of saffron
4 cloves of garlic
4cm piece of ginger
olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ras el hanout
1 t
ablespoon sun-dried tomato paste
2.5kg mixed veg, such as aubergines, courgettes, carrots, cherry tomatoes, red onion, butternut squash, mixed-colour peppers
1 × 400g tin of chickpeas
100g dried apricots
1 preserved lemon
300g couscous
½ a bunch of mixed fresh herbs, such as dill, mint, flat-leaf parsley (15g)
20g flaked almonds
Put the saffron into a jug, cover with 500ml of boiling water and leave to infuse. Meanwhile, peel and finely slice the garlic and ginger, then place in a large casserole pan over a medium heat with 2 tablespoons of oil, the cumin, cinnamon and ras el hanout. Add the tomato paste, fry for a few minutes, stirring regularly, then pour over the saffron water. Trim and prep the veg, as necessary, then chop into large chunks, adding them to the pan as you go. Tip in the chickpeas (juices and all), roughly chop and add the apricots and preserved lemon, discarding any pips, then season with sea salt and black pepper. Bring to the boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until tender, stirring occasionally.
When the veg are almost tender, just cover the couscous with boiling water, season with salt and pepper and pop a plate on top. Leave for 10 minutes, then fluff and fork up. Pick the herb leaves and toast the almonds. Serve the tagine and couscous sprinkled with the almonds and herbs.
Delicious served with harissa rippled yoghurt.
In the summer I grow most of these vegetables, and I’m always eager to pick, wash and race to cook this dish – the flavour is just extraordinary with tender, delicate veg.
BREAD-TOPPED BIRYANI
CAULIFLOWER, CHICKPEA & GREEN BEAN CURRY, FRAGRANT SAFFRON RICE
SERVES 6 | 2 HOURS PLUS RESTING
450g basmati rice
2 cloves of garlic
2.5cm piece of ginger
2 onions
1 fresh red chilli
100g sun-dried tomato paste
1 bunch of fresh coriander (30g)
3 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
olive oil
200g green beans
½ a head of cauliflower (400g)
1 × 700g jar of chickpeas
150g natural yoghurt
350ml semi-skimmed milk
1 good pinch of saffron
½ teaspoon cardamom pods
garam masala
200g self-raising flour
Cook the rice in a large pan of boiling salted water for exactly 7 minutes, then drain and spread out on a tray to cool. Meanwhile, peel and roughly chop the garlic, ginger and onions. Whiz to a paste in a blender with the chilli, tomato paste, most of the coriander and a splash of water. Put the cloves and cinnamon into a large pan on a medium heat with 2 tablespoons of oil and fry for 2 minutes, then tip in the paste and cook for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Trim and halve the beans and break the cauliflower into bite-sized florets, then add to the pan with the chickpeas (juices and all). Stir in the yoghurt, cover and simmer on a low heat for 10 minutes, then season to perfection with sea salt and black pepper.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Gently heat the milk over a low heat until warm, then turn off. Add the saffron, bash and add the cardamom pods, then leave to infuse. Lightly oil a 23cm springform cake tin and place on a tray. Spoon in a third of the rice and really press down to compact. Drizzle over 4 tablespoons of the saffron milk, dust with 1 teaspoon of garam masala and spoon over half the curry. Repeat the layers once more, pressing as you go and finishing with a top layer of rice and 4 more tablespoons of the saffron milk.
Add the flour to the remaining saffron milk and bring together into a dough (add extra flour, if needed). Knead until smooth, then roll out so it’s just bigger than the tin. Place on top, pressing the edges to seal. Rub with oil, dust with garam masala, and bake at the bottom of the oven for 40 minutes, or until golden. Rest for 15 minutes, then remove the bread lid and tear into portions, release from the tin, and pick, finely chop and scatter over the remaining coriander. Always good served with a squeeze of lemon, a green salad and a dollop of yoghurt.
PIES, PARCELS & BAKESPLEASE SELECT A RECIPE
TAP FOR TEXT VERSION
PIES, PARCELS & BAKES
ALLOTMENT COTTAGE PIE
STICKY ONION TART
ROASTED VEG DOSA
SUMMER VEG BLANKET PIE
CAULIFLOWER CHEESE PIZZA PIE
CRISPY-BOTTOMED STEAMED DUMPLINGS
ASPARAGUS QUICHE & SOUP
MY VEGGIE MOUSSAKA
PITHIVIER PIE
FILO SNAKE BAKE
MY VEGGIE PASTIES
YEMENI-STYLE PANCAKES
EASY PEA & SPINACH SAMOSAS
ALLOTMENT COTTAGE PIE
ROOT VEG, PORCINI MUSHROOMS, MARMITE & CRISPY ROSEMARY
SERVES 6–8 | 2 HOURS
10g dried porcini mushrooms
2 large leeks
3 carrots
500g swede
500g celeriac
olive oil
3 sprigs of fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2kg potatoes
40g unsalted butter
1 splash of semi-skimmed milk
1 onion
1 teaspoon Marmite
3 tablespoons tomato purée
1 × 400g tin of green lentils
Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/gas 5. In a blender, cover the porcini with 600ml of boiling water. Trim, wash and slice the leeks 2cm thick, then scrub the carrots, swede and celeriac and chop to roughly the same size. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of oil into a large casserole pan on a medium heat, strip in the rosemary, fry for 1 minute to crisp up, then remove to a plate with a slotted spoon. Add the cumin seeds and prepped veg to the flavoured oil, season with sea salt and black pepper, and cook for 30 minutes, stirring regularly.
Meanwhile, peel and roughly chop the potatoes, cook in a pan of boiling salted water for 15 minutes, or until tender, then drain well. Mash with the butter and milk, and season to taste. Quarter the onion, add to the porcini in the blender along with the Marmite and tomato purée and whiz until smooth. Pour into the veg pan and cook for 20 minutes, or until dark and caramelized, stirring regularly and scraping up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan.
Tip the lentils (juices and all) into the veg pan, bring to the boil, then season to taste. Spoon over the mash, place on a tray, bake for 30 minutes, or until lightly golden and bubbling at the edges, then sprinkle over the crispy rosemary.
Serve with simple steamed seasonal greens – it’s a winner!
Sometimes I swap the lentils for borlotti or butter beans – both work really well.
STICKY ONION TART
SWEET GARLIC, FRESH THYME, BAY & BUTTERY PUFF PASTRY
SERVES 6 | 50 MINUTES
4 medium onions
50g unsalted butter
4 sprigs of fresh thyme
4 fresh bay leaves
2 tablespoons soft dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons cider vinegar
8 cloves of garlic
320g sheet of all-butter puff pastry (cold)
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas 7. Peel the onions and halve across the middle. Place the butter in a 26cm non-stick ovenproof frying pan on a medium heat. Strip in the thyme leaves and add the bay, shake the pan around and get it bubbling, then add the sugar, vinegar and 100ml of water. Place the onion halves in the pan, cut side down. Peel and halve the garlic cloves and place in the gaps, then season generously with sea salt and black pepper. Cover, turn the heat down to low and leave to steam for 10 minutes to soften the onions slightly, then remove the lid and cook until – very importantly! – the liquid starts to caramelize, gently shaking the pan occasionally to stop it from sticking.
Place the pastry over the onions, using a wooden spoon to push it right into the edges of the pan. Bake for 35 minutes, or until golden brown and puffed up (it will look quite dark, but don’t worry!). Using oven gloves to protect your hands, pop a lar
ge plate over the pan and confidently but very carefully turn out.
Delicious served with goat’s cheese, a simple salad and a cold beer.
Shallots, leeks and spring onions all make wonderful tarts – just make sure they’re soft and caramelized before covering with pastry.
ROASTED VEG DOSA
TOMATO & GINGER SALSA, FRESHLY GRATED COCONUT
SERVES 6 | 1 HOUR 45 MINUTES PLUS SOAKING & FERMENTING
150g white urid dal
300g basmati rice
2 tablespoons fenugreek seeds
2 red onions
2 peppers
2 potatoes
2 sweet potatoes (250g each)
olive oil
65g freshly grated coconut
5cm piece of ginger
12 ripe cherry tomatoes
2 cloves of garlic
2 fresh red chillies
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
1 knob of unsalted butter
½ a bunch of fresh coriander (15g)
Thoroughly wash the dal, rice and fenugreek, then drain and place in a blender. Top up with 900ml of fresh water and leave for 6 hours with the lid on to soak (transfer to a covered bowl and work in batches if you have a small blender), then blitz. Leave overnight at room temperature to ferment, then blitz again until super-smooth – this batter will be good for 2 days in the fridge. When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Rub the onions, peppers, potatoes and sweet potatoes with 1 tablespoon of oil, then place in a snug-fitting roasting tray. Roast with a splash of water for 1 hour, or until soft, then remove.